Al’ n And’s grey gap year adventures

And so to Jaisalmer. Day 10 of our trip, a six and a half hour car journey from Bikaner, the largely greenish (although desert) scrubby landscape changing to the more to be expected sand desert, still with many scrub trees and still very flat. We drove through some fields of cultivation (irrigation systems in play) and large areas restricted to the military: camps, ranges, training, barracks.

The arrival in Jaisalmer was, as we now expect, a chaos of vehicles, people, cows and noise but all you read about the drama of the fort searing out of the plains is true. It is spectacular and highly photogenic. I will spare you my complete fort library (be thankful!!) but share a few, including of our walk around the Sadi Garh tank (rainwater lake)

 

We are staying at a small and delightful family owned and run hotel, Fifu, about 1k from the fort gate on a quiet (well by Indian standards!) street. It had an uninterrupted view of the fort until very recently, a new building is in course of construction opposite which means the view is now only uninterrupted from the roof terrace. We felt sorry for the owner who explained his was the first in the street but there are no building/planning controls which protect his position. 

It is an easy walk to and from the fort except for the corner of the main road where the stench from the al fresco urinal and open sewer gets us every time. Stench apart the walk has afforded us interaction with lots of local animal life

The fort is inhabited, and well geared up for tourists with extraordinary buildings to see, Rajasthani goods on offer everywhere and many pleasant roof top cafes and restaurants. I admit shopping has happened. We are getting used to and good at (a) dodging scooters and tuktuks and (b) extricating ourselves from unwanted offers of guides and shop visits. Again, the fort interior is hugely photogenic and we have very much enjoyed exploring

Our two cultural visits were to the palace and the Jain temples, but that is for another time. Until then, Namaste

Alison

Our last day in Bikaner was, we think, quite unusual. As the consequence of an email introduction from good friend John Roddison back home, we were invited for lunch by Princess Rajyashree Kumari, at Lallgargh Palace, originally the family seat, now partly heritage hotel and administrative HQ of the numerous family charities and foundations of which she is chair person. She is the daughter of the late Maharaja of Bikaner.

We had a tour of the hotel, a tour of the private museum and then lunch where we also met the princesses nephew Nino, his wife Uma and their son Max.

The landlady at our homestay was beside herself that we were meeting the Princess and suggested we took flowers which she would go to the flower market to buy. The bouquet of roses was warmly received and we were happy to report to our landlady that her choice was approved and provide photographic evidence that we had not been teasing her . . .  .

Next stop Jaisalmer but until then, Namaste

Alison

Arrival in Bikaner: everything you have read, heard, been told is true. A tranquil three and a half hour car journey from Mandawa until the last half hour when tranquility ended on the approach to Bikaner, a sprawling city. Here we have experienced our first real assault on the senses, at least the aural and olfactory ones. Every vehicle hoots to let others know they are there, apparently necessary without defined lanes and in the chaos of cars, bikes, people, cows, camels, dogs . . . More people, more rubbish, and the pollution really hit. The noise, the smells – but this, at least in part, is what we came to experience first hand

We checked into our airbnb –  a semi-self contained apartment, no isolation from the charming host and her family because of the atrium style living areas, noise (TV, talking) and smells (cooking) again, but of a more agreeable kind

Two tuktuks were called, to take us on a tour of the city

Here the hawelis are vast, intricately carved sandstone and although recently added to the world monument list sadly neglected and dilapidated; not safe enough to visit the interiors

Then a walk round the market in the old city. Bustling, and this time mostly good smells: spices and street food which we are too squeamish yet to sample, colourful sights

There are communal tables scattered about, still used for eating, chatting and conducting business. Communal dogs also use them although their business isf the sleeping kind

 

 

Our cultural tuktuk tour concluded with a visit to the Bhandasar Temple. The story goes 40,000 kg of ghee was used in the construction mortar. No obvious sign of that on our visit, although seepage on occasion is claimed. The interior decoration was stunning

Temple no, 3

Vegetarian curries for dinner including a cashew one which was delicious. No beers (or any booze) was a bit of a shock but we will become accustomed where necessary!!

Our visit next day to the fort was without a sick Roberto, left at “home” (flu-ish cold, nothing gastric). Huge, sandstone, carving, beautiful interiors . . . I have insufficient adjectives or superlatives. As with the temple, the photographs do not do it justice but provide a flavour

We wanted to understand more about the role of camels after seeing so many working in Bikaner but I failed to talk my fellow travellers into a camel safari for an up close experience. Instead, we all fell in love with the specimens at The National Research Centre on Camels, how could we resist those long lashes and velvet noses. The  visit ends at the camel dairy but we were only brave enough to try camel milk kulfi  of the various camel milk products on offer

I have one final Bikaner story to share but that is for next time. Until then, Namaste

Alison

Upfront confession: the reflections of Mandawa  in this post may already be benefitting from hindsight as we are now at our second Rajasthani location but I was thwarted by technology so am only now putting fingers to keypad

An indolent day after our arrival saw us enjoying the Castle hotel garden and pool with brief forays into town by Alison and Roberto for supplies – water, apertif necessities (why waste our private courtyard?), and then enjoying a picturesque sunset and planning a trip out the following day.

Planning the trip was achieved by asking the waiter at the restaurant we ate at for the second night if he knew someone who could drive us to Fatehpur and back, the purpose of the visit being to tour the restored haweli Nadine le Prince. The outcome: of course the waiter knew someone and were we really staying in Mandawa three nights? It appears most visits are one night or an absolute maximum of two . . . 

We set off the next morning for the 21k drive to Fatehpur. It took an hour, probably 18k of road under construction! We were entertained by the landscape and those we shared the road with:  trucks, cars, motor bikes, scooters, dogs, goats, donkeys, cows and camels. The landscape is pretty green as we are only a few weeks after the monsoon

The haweli (merchant house) Nadine le Prince was a fascinating visit. Named after the French artist who bought it in 1998 and continues to own it, the wreck it must have been is being restored by Nadine and a small army of local and visiting artists and artisans who are in part learning the appropriate techniques as they work. It also operates as a guest house. The architecture, materials and paintings are so interesting and it gave us a much better idea of what the Mandawa hawelis would have been like. Well worth a visit if you are in the area!

And then back to Mandawa, the journey seemed quicker on the return, the town much smaller, brighter and less full of rubbish than Fatehpur (although it has its share!!) and with colourful food stalls and animals working, wandering and foraging. Perhaps we are becoming acclimatised

Next stop Bikaner. Until then, Namaste 

Alison 

Well this blogging technology is a steep learning curve for me but here goes.

Newly retired, London home of many years emptied and rented (boy was that hard work!) living in Folkestone for a couple of months (very enjoyable despite the longest running, smallest renovation project in the world; many thanks to all who have visited so far) and now on the first of what we plan to be many trips during our grey gap year (or two, or three . . . .)

We are in India and, after two thoroughly civilised days in Delhi (thank you so very much Ravleen) where we were joined by Alison & Roberto after their amazing trip in Iran, we are now on our Rajasthan tour, first stop Mandawa.

A small, dusty crumbling town with much evidence of its former glory including in our hotel, Castle Mandawa, with excessively over the top room sizes and decoration.

We are yet to dig out the expected artisans and art work but it is a gentle introduction with a lovely garden and pool to relax in and make plans for the next several weeks

For now Andy joins me in sending love

Namaste, Alison