DELWARA – RAAS DEVIGARH
Our next destination was the venue of Alison M’s 60th birthday celebrations (one month late) and two days of hedonistic relaxation; she had read an article about the hotel in the Sydney paper and decided she would like to celebrate there – we were more than willing accomplices!
We travelled by car from Jodhpur, a changing landscape from desert scrub to the rolling Aravalli hills to immense areas of quarrying – marble – causing the disappearance of those same hills as well as the scarring of the landscape. For at least the last 10 miles of the run in to Delwara the road was lined with cutting yards and showrooms for every type of marble product . . . .quite extraordinary to see
We spotted lots of monkeys along the route but our driver was oblivious to our squeals of excitement so there were no photo opportunities, apart from through the car windows, so no good photos. It was however bliss driving through clean country air with the windows open!
Raas Devigarh was a fort. The approach is through a village, and the compound is walled, with big gates. The external appearance is towering, impressive, still very fort-like and belying its modern, luxurious interiors. We were were showered with fragrant rose petals as we walked through the internal gate, which gave a hint of the pleasures ahead!
Within the compound are glorious flower and vegetable gardens, courtyards with original frescoes, a beautiful pool
One of the joys of the stay was being able to walk directly out of the fort grounds – we explored the neighbouring village of Delwara with its stepwell and walked into the countryside around the fort, we still encountered litter but also no traffic, clean air and lots of birds
There is a Jain temple complex in the village, made of all white marble, intricately carved. Alison and I visited but we were not allowed to photograph it. The men were told they could not enter wearing shorts, but they were not particularly disappointed!
The other three walked on, shaking off two local men who had attached themselves to us to practice their English (for which they requested money!) and I returned to the hotel gardens to write a blog and swim and admire the views
Alison M’s birthday dinner saw us dress in our Indian finery bought in Jodhpur. We started in the very lovely Durbar bar and then ate in a private area at the very top of the hotel. The steps to it were decorated with marigold and rose leaves as well as candles and the evening was a delight. We drank Chandon Rose (Indian grown and made) and ate salad from the hotel gardens, tandoor kebabs, chicken, fish and vegetable thalis, and a birthday cake, a surprise from the hotel
One last detail to share, Andy and I wore traditional Churidar pants (trousers) with our tunics. Women’s Churidar are long in the legs to give the appearance of bangles at the ankles. However, no one has yet been able to explain to us what all the extra fabric in the seat is for:
Raas Devigarh has been a fabulous interlude, next stop, Udaipur and back to the serious business of art, architecture, history and city life in Rajasthan . . .
Until then, Namaste
ALISON
Looks like a very special birthday dinner. India for me has always involved an assault on the senses, its a good idea to plan a little
refuge from the noise and full on energy of it. Seems like you found a great sanctuary to recharge.
It was indeed. And those are wise words, we needed the recharge and thoroughly enjoyed it xx
Oooooohhhh Udaipur our favourite place – we loved it – there is this art gallery/artefact place down a little side street run by the same family for generations def worthy a visit – like
Aladdin’s cave Maybe Bridget will remember the name
Udaipur has been and gone, my blog is many destinations in arrears! Watch this space . . .hope all is well xx