Arrival in Bikaner: everything you have read, heard, been told is true. A tranquil three and a half hour car journey from Mandawa until the last half hour when tranquility ended on the approach to Bikaner, a sprawling city. Here we have experienced our first real assault on the senses, at least the aural and olfactory ones. Every vehicle hoots to let others know they are there, apparently necessary without defined lanes and in the chaos of cars, bikes, people, cows, camels, dogs . . . More people, more rubbish, and the pollution really hit. The noise, the smells – but this, at least in part, is what we came to experience first hand
We checked into our airbnb – a semi-self contained apartment, no isolation from the charming host and her family because of the atrium style living areas, noise (TV, talking) and smells (cooking) again, but of a more agreeable kind
Two tuktuks were called, to take us on a tour of the city
Here the hawelis are vast, intricately carved sandstone and although recently added to the world monument list sadly neglected and dilapidated; not safe enough to visit the interiors
Then a walk round the market in the old city. Bustling, and this time mostly good smells: spices and street food which we are too squeamish yet to sample, colourful sights
There are communal tables scattered about, still used for eating, chatting and conducting business. Communal dogs also use them although their business isf the sleeping kind
Our cultural tuktuk tour concluded with a visit to the Bhandasar Temple. The story goes 40,000 kg of ghee was used in the construction mortar. No obvious sign of that on our visit, although seepage on occasion is claimed. The interior decoration was stunning
Temple no, 3
Vegetarian curries for dinner including a cashew one which was delicious. No beers (or any booze) was a bit of a shock but we will become accustomed where necessary!!
Our visit next day to the fort was without a sick Roberto, left at “home” (flu-ish cold, nothing gastric). Huge, sandstone, carving, beautiful interiors . . . I have insufficient adjectives or superlatives. As with the temple, the photographs do not do it justice but provide a flavour
We wanted to understand more about the role of camels after seeing so many working in Bikaner but I failed to talk my fellow travellers into a camel safari for an up close experience. Instead, we all fell in love with the specimens at The National Research Centre on Camels, how could we resist those long lashes and velvet noses. The visit ends at the camel dairy but we were only brave enough to try camel milk kulfi of the various camel milk products on offer
I have one final Bikaner story to share but that is for next time. Until then, Namaste
Alison
Doh !Have finally mastered this technology! What an amazing trip.It all looks completely stunning and exciting and makes me want to go back to India right now.In particular the wonderful wall paintings in the hawelis and the ganesh imagery which is a a special fave of mine. Enjoy and please keep on sending news and photos…living this trip with you is just fab! lotsa love B&A xx
…….to come back. My ears are currently ringing from the incessant scooter truck and tuktuk horns in the old city in Jodhpur. Sending lots of love xxx
The images are stunning, Alison! I love the camels….but then, I would!
Glad you are having such an amazing trip!
xxxxxx
Thank you and yes, of course you would love the camels. Big hugs xx
What a contrast to Mandawa! The sunset photos there seemed to set the calm tone you described. And from your description NLP has even mastered how to stay calm in the presence of never ending building works and on-site contractors coming and going – did he have any tips?!
Bikaner sounds altogether different and equally fascinating. Architecturally different but the hawelis look amazing as does the fort. Incredible detail. (The only ‘haweli’ I’ve ever been to is on the corner of Belmont high st near Sutton and does a mean Peshawari Naan bread!)
As for the camels… beautiful and serene. Pretty sure Hebe would have lash envy!
Best to all and hope Robert has recovered. Love, M & E xx
Thank you and you are right, huge contrast. And how funny you have known a havweli at all, I had not heard of them until researching this trip. Roberto is almost back to 100% thank you and we all send our love xxx
All looks wonderfully Indian, colourful and chaotic. Keep posting!
Thank you and I will certainly try. Loving the Piedmont pictures and we have slight food …..well not quite envy but certainly pangs xx
Beautiful, especially the camels. Glad Roberto is on the mend. Had some trouble finding this blog. It wanted me to sign into some site with a W. the first and second time. WordPress maybe? Avoided that and eventually found your amazing blog. xxx
Aaah but you are not alone in the initial access issue and at least you have done it now. Th aks for kind words and watch this space. Lots of love xx
The Haweli buildings look beautiful, as do your interior photos of the fort (those windows!) and, of course, the camels. One of them could surely win a contest!
Thank you Claire. I agree about the camels!! We are enjoying some fabulous visual riches. Lots of love xx
Completely bowled over by dogs sleeping on top of cars and tables hhhhhhaaaaa and the beautiful camels 🤣🤣🤣🤣love to all of youxxxx
Thank you and right back at you xx
Hello O adventurous ones….love the pics and artwork as well as the olfactory experiences 🙂 ….hope R is now fully recovered. Hugs Shirin
Hi neighbour. We are loving Jaisalmer. Blog post to follow. Another full day of exploring it tomorrow. R almost back to 100%, he and Andy drank beer this afternoon while A and I shopped!! Xx
Such beautiful colours everywhere.x
More to follow . . . Xx