Hello lovely people no. 26 (no. 3 in Australia)

We continue north, first stop the pink lake. It is full of carotenoid algae, responsible for its colour, which is commercially managed and farmed and used as food colouring.  It is a scenic leg stretch and framed by very fragrant bush. A few skittish small birds but no other wildlife is evident

Then to Kalbarri and our first taste of WA national park. In Kalbarri the park is divided in two: to the south it is clifftop with views out west over the Indian Ocean; to the north and east it is bush, red cliffs and gorge carved by the mighty Murchison river. We stop at a lookout in the southern national park, Grandstand, and spy humpback whales on their northern migration, blowing and breaching. They are a good way offshore but it is spectacularly beautiful and soooo exciting to see

We are staying in the town, which has a great foreshore where the Murchison flows into the sea, protected by a reef. We take a walk at dusk and watch pelicans, fishermen, crashing waves and a stunning WA sunset

An early evening drink at what we are beginning to recognise as a classic WA regional pub: large, industrial looking building, bar area, counter meals area, TVs showing sport. Alison M manages to sweet-talk the barman into tuning in to the first day of Wimbledon and we watch the opening matches!

The following day we walk in the southern national park, following the Bigurda Trail, from Eagle Gorge, past lookouts at Grandstand (again), Island Rock and Natural Bridge and then back. Probably our first properly “Ozzie” day with great big blue sky and sea. The round walk is 16k of cliff top on a well defined path, not too much climb and drop but with a lot of loose stone under foot so fairly slow going. Add in the need to admire the views, sniff the fragrant bush, spot early wildflowers, wonder at the fabulous colors and striations in the cliffs, spot the offshore humpbacks and its is a pretty long but rewarding day

Dinner is at local favourite Finlay’s, a big outdoor eatery with BBQ and local fish, decorated with industrial artworks (or as the cynics might call it cast-off agricultural and fishing equipment); highly atmospheric but it is a damn chilly evening to be eating outside and with very slow service – an hour for a starter and another hour for a main. Apparently super busy because of winter school holidays . . . .  

With two more full days before heading out of Kalbarri we have a day at the beach at Eagle Bluff: perfect weather, sea, sand, dunes and rocks. No swimming – too cold to be tempting and big waves which brought the surfers out. Roberto fished. His only catch too small and returned to the sea

The following day is an outing to the north eastern national park. A walk to Nature’s Window – the most people we have yet seen anywhere, obviously a big tourist draw. More great views and fragrant bush but very few birds and the only other wildlife is a couple of kangaroos grazing

Our plan to walk the 8K loop is curtailed by the need to get our truck to a mechanic in the town, to see if the front windscreen washers can be fixed: there is no washing despite a full tank. Unfortunately the problem cannot be quickly diagnosed and is not fixed. We will, via the hire company who are responsive, have to book it in elsewhere. A gentle last afternoon at the town foreshore including a pedallo ride and another spectacular sunset. Another evening trying to plan for destinations further north at Coral Bay and Exmouth and failing to find any availability – same story, winter school holidays. We decide not to panic and instead to make a few phone calls in the morning

We leave for Hamelin Pool, at the southern end of Shark Bay and make two more stops in the national park en route: Hawks Head and Ross Graham Lookout. Very pleasant walking and more great rocks and views

The drive from Kalbarri is about 240Ks including the stops at the national park. We break for lunch at our first classic roadhouse: The Billabong. In fact there are two adjacent roadhouses, in different ownership, using the same name which we assume is of the local town. However, Roberto asks if there is anything more to Billabong and it it is just the two roadhouses. On the advice of Dan from whom we picked up our rental truck we eat at the first (Thai chicken curry) and buy fuel at the second, where we share petrol pumps with Tim Minchin and his family – a low key celebrity moment!

And then we drive on, more straight roads, low scrub, some flowering wattle and no wildlife

Until next time, g’day to you all

ALISON 

PS: map below shows our route from Geraldton to Hamelin Pool