Hello lovely people . . . . No. 11

RANTHAMBORE

We left Udaipur by train, our second journey. Destination Saiwa Madhopur, the town which is the gateway to Ranthambore National Park. We have come for fresh air and countryside – and in the hope of seeing tigers.  Again the train started at our emabarcation point so we had plenty of time to settle ourselves and our luggage for the six and a half hour journey (394 km). However, as we left at 18:15 and the train continued after our stop for another six hours, getting settled meant preparing to sleep: were, like on our first journey, in an eight berth carriage and this time the other four berths were taken, by travellers who wanted at least to lie down if not sleep from the off

We were a little late arriving and delighted that our hotel, we had asked them to send a cab, also had their driver meet us at the carriage door which at 1.45 a.m, a bit dozy and with no idea where to go, was welcome. It was a quick drive to the hotel where, despite the hour, we were greeted with garlands of marigolds and offered drinks and snacks. We settled for a cup of tea and a biscuit in the room, confirmed our safari for that afternoon and headed to bed

After a leisurely late morning by the pool and with cameras and ‘phones charged we set off by open jeep: the four of us, a guide and driver. 

It was a drive of about 10k to the park gates, first along the main road which houses many hotels all catering to tourists visiting Ranthambore. It was the usual jumble of tuk tuks, motorbikes, carts (bullock, horse and camel drawn), cows, pigs, dogs. The road became increasingly quiet and forested and we saw only monkeys and then many locals heading for the temple at the top of the hill outside the park gates, some on foot most on motorbikes. Do the tigers – and leopards – know they are supposed to stay in the park confines? Our guide told us tigers would take a couple of villagers every year and googling this substantiates the statement although not necessarily in Ranthambore

The park is beautiful, parts in a valley, very wooded, and with vistas leading up to the ancient fort. We spotted many deer (spotted and Sambar) and a number of birds including a magnificent kingfisher

Although very happy being driven through the park bird and deer spotting and enjoying the magnificent countryside we are really hoping for a big cat. And then – a sighting – a flash of a face, a turn, a good view of its hind quarters and the cat disappeared into the dense trees, climbing the rocky hillside. We had had a glimpse of a leopard, too quick for any of us to snatch a photograph but exciting nonetheless and according to our guide a very rare and unusual spot

We carried on for an hour or so, beautiful scenery, crossing paths occasionally with another jeep and the drivers and guides stopped and shared information about routes and sightings. And then, as we were about to ford a small stream the whisper came from the front of the jeep “tiger tiger tiger”

We watched, scrambling to our feet and hitting camera and phone buttons as the tigress appeared from behind a tree and started to walk towards us. The guide had the driver reverse and stop and the tiger walked towards us. And this happened again, again, again. She walked towards us, we reversed, over a distance of a kilometre and for about 20 minutes. It was extraordinary and beautiful. She would occasionally stop, or mark her territory, looking at us all the while

Alison M and I, at the rear of the jeep with four big healthy men between us and the tiger, never felt at risk! It was slightly more Adrenalin inducing for Andy and Roberto but in reality none of us wanted to retreat, and the guide kept us just out of leap and bite distance whispering “challo, challo” (go,go) to the driver whenever he thought he should start reversing

The known tigers in Ranthambore number 65 and are called “T1, T2” etc. Our guide recognized “our” tiger as T39 and said the guides have named her Noor, and she is certainly very regal. Apparently she has three cubs, nearing adulthood, which were not with her this afternoon. We wondered, as she left the road, whether we might see a kill, there were many deer about who fled as Noor entered their grazing area, one young one became isolated – and we waited and watched but there was no attack and the deer called for its mother. Looking at our photographs in the jeep (the instant gratification of digital photography!!) we could see Noor looked full bellied so that deer was probably always safe that afternoon . . . .

At the end of this magical experience we continued our tour of the park, picnicked, when our guide told us there had been no tiger sightings the previous four afternoons (!) and saw many more birds, deer, views and the lake, including its crocodiles

After three and a half hours we return to our hotel, all knackered, dusty, elated, saddle sore (the roads are deeply corrugated and the jeep has little in the way of suspension). Andy and I confirm bird watching tomorrow at 6 a.m. The evening is a drink in the bar, dinner and early bed. We have hardly walked a pace but Fitbit says I have done over 23,000 steps – that must be every jolt on the rough roads in the jeep registering as a step!! Does that count?

The next morning Andy and I set off with a guide and driver again, as the sun is rising. We head in the opposite direction to the park towards a lake, created by a damn. We drive through the town proper – and it is big, messy and sprawling. Apparently it had India largest concrete production facility but that was closed, to sop its polluting side consequences, when the national park was inaugurated. Our guide tells us the abandoned works are now home to leopards who come into the village to kill cattle . . . 

After leaving the town the landscape becomes very rural, very agricultural. Our guide points out traditional – mud – housing and wall decorations. An early spot is a never seen before pied kingfisher, which we see see plummet and dive for a fish, and we have many good spots after that

It was another great drive through an interesting landscape and provided lungs full of fresh air. We could even get out of the jeep to stretch our legs unlike yesterday where that was forbidden

Back at base Alison M and Roberto had been for a walk, discovered a women’s co-operative craft centre and ordered a rug. We all walked there in the afternoon for A & R to do their deal and of course, shopping took place!Andy even found some obligingly photogenic parakeets

Ranthambore has been a marvellous interlude in our Rajasthani journey and is definitely Andy’s favourite Indian experience so far . . . . . .

Until next time, Namaste

ALISON