Hyderabad was not on my radar as a city to visit. Over the summer I receive an email from Charlotte, a friend and former colleague at Thrings. We worked together from when I joined the London office in 2010 until I retired in 2018 – coincidentally just after Charlotte relocated to the Bath office. Charlotte announces that she will be leaving Thrings in the autumn as husband Max has been offered a two year post in India with his job, an opportunity too good to pass up for them and their five year old son Ralph – leaving drinks? Well drinks yes but more importantly where in India and where – because Andy and I will be leaving Jaipur on 23rd October after attending a wedding (what a wedding!!) for a trip as yet very fluid – could we meet up? And so it happens: Charlotte absolutely confident they will be in Hyderabad by 23rd October and checks and tells me its only a two hour flight from Jaipur – which it is
Max and Charlotte are incredibly brave to host us, and insist it is all fine and we do not have to stay in a hotel as they have a large apartment. All well and good, but what I did not appreciate until we arrived – Charlotte was scant with details and far too busy to answer unimportant questions(!) (merely requiring our flight details so that she and Ralph could meet us with a driver) – is that they have only been in India five nights, three in an hotel and two in their apartment. More, that their apartment, while huge, is taken unfurnished apart from beds
They have achieved marvels in the few days available to them with a little help from Max’s team at EPAM and a lot from IKEA . . . The huge apartment has a working kitchen, an all important water cooler, sofa, TV, internet, new bedding, new towels, a balcony with a stone ledge and new cushions to sit on and a well stocked fridge. Astonishing progress. It is so interesting getting a glimpse over the next few days of what their life will be like for the next two years
We are met at the airport, collect Max from outside his office (not officially at work yet), stop at a supermarket and liquor store and head home… Lodha. In a new part of the city, an apartment on the 25th floor (of I think 40) in a complex of seven towers: gated, security, pool, gym, club house, kids play grounds, shop, ATM and monkeys! Our first evening is happily spent catching up, drinking concocted cocktails, helping Charlotte prep a butter chicken dish (which needed marinating – but sadly we never got to eat – too much eating out) and dining on the balcony on excellent, and very hot, takeaway biryani. Poor Charlotte, her taste buds are in for a major acclimatisation, she’s not good with chilli or any hot spice, but is determined to learn
The next day it is tourist time: two cars, two drivers, one of Max’s colleagues as a guide. We visit Golconda fort and walk the many, many steps to the top: Ralph did so well. Great views over the city which still has large green areas. Then to Charminar, the heart of the old city, its landmark four minarets glowing and the area really busy – its a public holiday, Dussehra, at the end of the nine days of Navrati – Hindu festivals. There are marigolds decorating everything and the colours seem more riotous than usual. Irani chai – the local speciality – with delicious cherry coconut biscuits. Home to freshen up and change – and High Tea at Taj Falaknuma. What a treat, organised by Max. A fabulous former palace on a hill overlooking the city. Built in 1894 for the Nizam at the time rumoured to be the richest man in the world. We briefly join an history tour of the building and then head for our sumptuous tea, spicy delicacies, a few sandwiches, cakes and desserts. And for Ralph, as many cheese sandwiches on white bread cheese sandwiches as he can manage – which he pronounced delicious! Its the reason we could not cook and eat the butter chicken that evening, way too full
Max is at work the following day, the first day of his new normal. We head back to Charminar, bangle buying, more Irani tea, a delicious veg puff and biscuits. An ice cream stop for Ralph and a visit to a park for peacocks – thwarted because it is closed between 12:00 and 16:30. Never mind – it’s hot, the pool beckons. Except it’s closed for cleaning. Never mind, lovely to sit out, enjoy the breeze and watch Ralph make friends with local kids in the play ground. He starts school tomorrow. A big day for him which he appears completely un-phased about. Dinner – local biryani at an ITC hotel restaurant – and our time in Hyderabad is done. We are off to Hampi tomorrow
It’s a huge city – to us very distinct between the modern and the old. Massive new buildings and huge investment: Google, Accenture, Deloitte, Tara, Capgemini – the list goes on. Lots of traffic but it doesn’t feel always filled with mayhem on the roads, and not too smoggy, perhaps helped by its vast green areas, long may they survive
A very fond farewell to Max, Charlotte and Ralph. We wish them the best times and many experiences, good and unusual, as well as every success professional and personal, during their new chapter
Until next time, namaste
ALISON
Arrival – being driven by Babu
Charlotte & Max’s apartment, kitchen cocktails, prepping butter chicken
Golconda Fort – the entrance
Golconda Fort – within the complex
Golconda Fort – interior shot, Ralph in a bat cave, decoration at the Hindu temple built by the Muslim rulers within the complex for the workers
Views over Hyderabad from Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort – on the way up and the mosque at the summit (it was approx 720 steps each way!)
Ralph as superstar at Golconda Fort – everyone wanted to be photographed with him, ask his name, where he is from, his age and pinch his cheeks – he coped very well!!
Charminar – first visit
Walkabout and Irani tea and biscuits at Charminar
Marigolds- for Puja
Street side fish stall and a fishy building
Some interiors at Taj Falaknuma
High Tea – before the tea! Taj Falaknuma
Some exteriors, Taj Falaknuma
A peacock in the grounds and sunset over Hyderabad as we leave Tal Falaknuma
Back at Charminar bazar: bangle and watch – for Ralph – buying, more Irani tea and a veg puff, Ralph’s ice cream stop, and a bit of Charlotte’s non-spicy pizza!!
Last Hyderabadi biryani supper: Ralph slept through all of it, bless him
And finally, as we leave Lodha, a big macaque puts in an appearance
Hyderabad looks and sounds great. Enjoy Hampi. Pete xx
Ralph looks like such a happy smiley kid! Bless pillow at the restaurant!